Antwerp. Privately Printed. 1998. First Edition. 30 x 30 cm, 23 12 x
12" cards. Numerous
Colour and Black & White plates.
Softcover.. Book: VG+. Dustwrap: VG.
9th season, the collection is shown in a Filmstudio; Studio
Carreree on the Avenue du President Wilson no. 50 in Paris close to
Porte de la Chapelle on Friday 29th January 1999 at 09h30 pm. A little
group of teenagers opened the show, with black flags featuring the
following words: DISORDER INCUBATION ISOLATION These words are important
to describe the image of the collection, and it is also a memorial to
Joy Division. The global idea of this collection is to make a reference
to the past, specially the first two parts of the show. Fashion goes so
quickly that people tend to forget the historical meaning of clothes,
especially costumes. This is why the opening of the show was like a
procession to create the right atmosphere. The most important part was a
group of models wearing black Capes, classical, asymmetric and circle
shapes in three quarter length, a variety of design, an other group
wearing ceremonial costumes, shirts with cuffs and collar that are
removable. The hair was very constructed in sharp lines. The first three
groups had black coloured hair. And in the last part the hair changed
to blond coloured hair, but still very constructed hairstyles. The
colour of the outfit changed from black to grey. Raf Simons likes plain,
black and monotone, but also he likes the past in contrast to the
future. The music was in this part very fast. The blond group was
wearing long light grey and dark grey coats with zippers. The
silhouettes are very clean: shirts in classical weaving wool fabrics
without collars. Nearly each light grey outfit was with a white 'R'
Turtleneck and the dark grey outfits with a red 'R' Turtleneck.