Monday, 25 July 2016

The Ingenious Patterns and Hotel Okura

Tokyo. Hotel Okura. 1964. First Edition. 4to, 104pp. Silver stamped cloth in slipcase. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in English and Japanese. Slipcase has been, ahem, customised. More images available on request.. Hardcover.. Book: VG+. .

Stunning book detailing the textile and wallpaper patterns, as well as the key themes of the famous Hotel Okura. "The Okura is an extraordinary testament to a key moment in Japanese design. It was built two years ahead of the Tokyo Olympics in 1964 ' with an annexe added in 1973 ' by an exceptionally gifted and diverse group that included the architects Yoshiro Taniguchi and Hideo Kosaka, the folk artist Shiko Munakata and the potter Kenkichi Tomimoto. Together they created a unique modern design that referenced the traditional colours, shapes and crafts of Japan." Fiona Wilson.



The Poser (Issues 1 and 2)

London. Self Published / Better Badges. 1979. First Edition. 2 Volumes. Small 4to, Unpaginated (ca 20pp). Numerous Black & White plates. Text in English.

Very special zine started in 1979 by Anderson, which John Peel described at the time as 'worth getting hold of'. Anderson was a photographer rather than a journalist, which makes the poser more of a photographic document than a fanzine. Though it is a very DIY publication the layout, printing and photography is extremely high quality, and makes for a distinct visual record of what was a fertile music scene in London at the time. The first 2 issues cover the Mo-Dettes, Iggy Poop, The Ruts, The Underground sound of Chippenham, The Slits, Penetration, The Clash, Siouxie and so on. The images are interspersed with short reviews of the gigs attended, and tips on gig photography. As a photographer Anderson seems more interested in composition, and bands that look visually striking, though many of the groups themselves are now considered essential in the punk and new wave canon.

The Smiths

Tokyo. Rockin' On. 1994. First Edition. Small 4to, Unpaginated (ca 160pp). Printed wraps as issued. Text in Japanese. Numerous Black & White plates.

Published in 1994, this is the best book on Morrissey and The Smiths by a long shot. It's also beautifully designed and produced, with a lot of brilliant early images.

The Village Voice View (Vue) Preview Issue

New York. Village Voice. 1985. First Edition. 4to, 30pp. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates.

Preview issue for The Village Voice's short lived (5 issues) fashion magazine, helmed by former 'Rags' editor Mary Peacock and designed by Yolanda Cuomo. The quality and depth of material is incredible, and provides an insider's ear on the ground in a way very few publications have achieved. Larry Fink goes clubbing at the Palladium, Nan Goldin takes Turbeville's bath house concept to it's logical conclusion, and delivers arguably her best work, dandies and street fashion get their dues, and a lot more.

Jun Takahashi Untitled. Sex and Seditionaries

No Place (Tokyo). No Publisher (Jun Takahashi / Undercover). No Date (ca 2004). First Edition. Folio. Unpaginated. Black cloth in Pin up Slipcase. Reputedly printed in an edition of 1000 copies. No Text. 
 
Inventory of Sex, Seditionaries, Let it Rock, Vivienne Westwood/Malcolm McClaren clothing. Page after page after page of original garments flat photographed, probably the only record of a lot of the garments. The publicity shy Takahashi of Undercover fame has probably the biggest collection of early Westwood, and this book documents all of it. Apparently McClaren flipped his wig and thought it had to be the collection of either Rei Kawakubo or Yoji Yamamoto, as they were the only two people he remembered buying one of everything in each colour. An underground legend.

Claude Nori Vacances a L'Italienne

Paris. Contrejour. 1987. First Edition. Oblong 4to, (unpaginated) 84pp. White wraps in white. Numerous Black & White plates.

An amazing Portrait of teenagers in Rimini, Sicily and Naples in 1984; on the beach, riding Vespa's, camping, going to the funfair etc. Looks like a lost Eric Rohmer film. Super stylish and very amazing.

Vague no.1

Salisbury. Vague. November 1979. First Edition. 4to, Unpaginated (8pp inc covers). Printed wrappers. Black & White/Monotone plates. Text in English.

Issue 1 of the seminal post punk zine with Siouxsie and the Banshees, Adam and the Ants, The Cure, The Specials, Madness, Selecter, Two-tone tour, Swell Maps, Red Crayola, Ruts. "'Every day the seditious seeds planted by Sniffin' Glue and Ripped & Torn bear some unlikely fruit. Every day another young editor staggers proudly under the Westway with a new bag of radical reading matter, making the three minute trip from one bright spark of the current explosion, Better Badges, to the other, Rough Trade. In every corner of the country there seems to be something going on' Wiltshire's Vague". Sounds. 'The kids like it.' Adam Ant.

Walter Pfeiffer & Co. Inventar

Zurich. Self Published. 1977. First Edition. 8vo. Unpaginated (48pp). Printed wraps as issued. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in German.

Looks like a catalog for a groupshow that Pfeiffer put on with a group of friends. Includes Thomy Kretz, Fredy von Beck, Barbara Schneider, Werni Eymann, Ezio, Lisa Enderli, Edy Marconi, Paolo Masina, Alfred Hog, Renato Serra, Andres Staubli, Marc Masson, Marlies Isler, Friedrich Nordpol, Daniel Steinmann and the mighty Manon! Beautiful.

Yohji Yamamoto F/W 2000-2001

Paris. Yohji Yamamoto. 2000. First Edition. 4to, Unpaginated (ca 30pp). Printed folder boards as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. In original stiff printed envelope.

Killer Yamamoto featuring Amber Valetta (amazing) tons of archival prints and crazy M/M work set over a series of 5 gigantic foldouts. Tip!

Yohji Yamamoto Fall Winter 1998/1999

Paris. Yohji Yamamoto. 1998. First Edition. Oblong folio, 28pp. Printed wraps. Full colour images. In stiff printed envelope.

Right- no ordinary look book here, Inez and Vinoodh shoot, Maggie Rizer models, and M/M art direct. Very surreal props, framing, lighting and connotations of witchcraft vie for equal attention with the clothes, which of course are super.

Yohji Yamamoto Femme F/W 1999-2000

Paris. Yohji Yamamoto. 1999. First Edition. 4to, Unpaginated (ca 48pp). Printed wraps in in textured dustwrap. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates, interleaved with screenprints. In original Yamamoto envelope.

Brilliant Yamamoto catalogue, beautifully put together by M/M and shot by Craig McDean, very theatrical, and interleaved with two colour screenprints.

Ian David Baker Younger Days

London. Aubrey Walter. 1993. First Edition. Small 4to, 64pp. Printed wraps as issued. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in English. Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. .


Shot in the 80s David Baker photographed youths around earl's court, seedy pool halls and in the park- in a world that really does no longer exist in the same way. Rent boys, fellas cruising in the park, tough lads, young mods, skins and the like, in a London that seems to be another planet when compared to the present day. Quite romantic, and quietly malancholic.

Fiorucci Panini Album

Should you need an introduction to Fiorucci itself- it was essentially the pop art wing of the fashion world, in the late 70s and early 80s Marc Jacobs, Jackie O, Calvin Klein and so on shopped there, Maripol worked there (and then became creative director), Kenny Scharf showed there, Keith Haring sprayed the Milan shop, you get the idea. The album- and stickers inside show the full flush of incredible Fiorucci graphics from their campaigns to their rather irreverent pop statements. Such a baffling and fun part Memphis part disco/new wave part pop art collection, and a complete graphic history of Fiorucci. Fantastic.

Fac51 The Hacienda Newsletter no.5

Manchester. Factory. Undated (but 1982). First Edition. 15 x 21cm. 4pp including covers, photocopy pages. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

One of the few Factory related things not to have its own catalog number. So, the year is 1982, the Hacienda has been open only for a few months, and things are going both swimmingly and disasterously by reading the contents. William Burroughs is on the cover as he's doing something with Psychic TV, listings in the centre also show Pere Ubu, Jam Wobbly, Psychedelic Furs, Ludus (yes!), Honeymoon Killers (yes!), Dillinger, Orange Juice, Sandi and the Sunsetz and then Thompson Twins, Tears for Fears, Big Country etc. Thats quite a serious line up! Big rant at the beginning from the manager complaining about membership cards, having a go at the punters, the newsletter being very late- so that by the time it was read most of the bands had already played, charts from Mike Pickering et al. video reviews and forms at the back, which if you were a member you had to fill in with your guests and show with your membership card. Sounds like a proper disaster. But a beautiful one.

Egoiste 1-10

Paris. Egoiste. 1977-1987. First Edition. Large Folio, 10 volumes. 48-156pp each. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in French. All bright and complete. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

Wow! The first ten issues of Egoiste, covering the first decade! Each issue could have a whole entry devoted to it. The scope, quality and influence really cannot be underestimated, and it's title as the most intelligent, luxurious and influential fashion magazine to have ever existed is pretty undisputed. A dream team of contributors, who give some of their best work, incredible art direction, and amazing subjects. Bettina Rheims, Mick Jagger, Warhol, Karl Lagerfeld, Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Patti Smith, Yves Saint Laurent, Isabelle Adjani, Deneuve, Andre Leon Talley, Lisa Lyons, Charlotte Rampling, Jean-Paul Goude, Jeanne Moreau, Philippe Morillon. Too amazing for words.

Egoiste 1

Paris. Egoiste. 1977. First Edition. Large Folio, 42pp. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in French. Bright and complete, centre spread has pin holes with tape reinforcement around them, but no tears! Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

The first ever issue of Egoiste. Starting as it will go on there's some superb work by Philippe Morillon, Gainsbourg, Warhol, Shirts, Paolo Roversi and it goes on. High brow and underground at the same time.

Dries Van Noten 1992-2006

Antwerp. N.V.Van Noten Andries/Privately published. 1992-2006. First Edition. Archive comprises: 7 Invitations (including the First Womenswear show in 1994) and 18 lookbooks and runway presentation books. Various sizes and paperstocks- Lookbooks range from 8vo to folio in size and are from 16-72 pages each. Hardcover.. Book: Fine. .

An incredible archive or Dries Van Noten invitations, lookbooks and ephemera stretching from the beginning in 1992 until 2006. Various sizes from regular book size (8vo) to folio for S/S 1998, different paper stocks and bindings, spot inks, gilting, special envelopes, invitations in acrylic, felt and more. Most of the work was done by the team themselves but there's a lot of work by Ronald Stoopz and the rest of the Antwerp crack team. Dries Van Noten has managed to sit both outside and right at the centre of the fashion system at the same time, keeping full independance, never advertising and not producing pre collections of diffusion lines. His refusal to participate in the fashion system has led not only to cult status, but has also allowed him, and his designers complete freedom- which means their work quite distinct. The clothes are subtle, perfectly detailed and considered, taking in a dizzying array of influences from Orientalism to New Wave Cinema and Modernist Painting all shot through with a unique sensibility. This archive of material very much distill's the influences and ethos of the designer and his house from the very early days to the mid 2000's.

Invitations:
Women's collections S/S 1994 (first womenswear show)
Women's collections Undated, but S/S 1997 (invitation gives a meeting place and states that a shuttle will take visitors to the show venue, which was La Plaine Saint-Denis)
Women's collections A/W 1999-2000 (foldout)
Men's collections A/W 1992-1993 (second show)
Men's collections A/W 1994-1995 (+ 6 page press presentation) (in envelope)
Men's collections S/S 1995 (in envelope)
Men's collections A/W 1995-1996 (in envelope)

Lookbooks:
Women's collections S/S 1998
Womens collections S/S 1998 (runway)
Womens Collections A/W 1998-1999 (runway) (2 copies)
Women's Collections A/W 1998-1999 (2 copies)
Womens Collections A/W 1999-2000
Womens Collections S/S 2000
Womens Collections S/S 2001 (runway)
Women's collections S/S 2001
Men's collections A/W 2000-2001
Mens Collections S/S 2004
Mens Collections A/W 2004-2005
Mens Collections S/S 2005
Mens Collections A/W 2005-2006
Men's and Women's Collections S/S 2000
Men's and Women's Collections A/W 2000-2001
Men's and Women's Collections A/W 2001-2002

Raf Simons Disorder Incubation Isolation (Autumn/Winter 1999-2000)

Antwerp. Privately Printed. 1998. First Edition. 30 x 30 cm, 23 12 x 12" cards. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates.  Softcover.. Book: VG+. Dustwrap: VG.

9th season, the collection is shown in a Filmstudio; Studio Carreree on the Avenue du President Wilson no. 50 in Paris close to Porte de la Chapelle on Friday 29th January 1999 at 09h30 pm. A little group of teenagers opened the show, with black flags featuring the following words: DISORDER INCUBATION ISOLATION These words are important to describe the image of the collection, and it is also a memorial to Joy Division. The global idea of this collection is to make a reference to the past, specially the first two parts of the show. Fashion goes so quickly that people tend to forget the historical meaning of clothes, especially costumes. This is why the opening of the show was like a procession to create the right atmosphere. The most important part was a group of models wearing black Capes, classical, asymmetric and circle shapes in three quarter length, a variety of design, an other group wearing ceremonial costumes, shirts with cuffs and collar that are removable. The hair was very constructed in sharp lines. The first three groups had black coloured hair. And in the last part the hair changed to blond coloured hair, but still very constructed hairstyles. The colour of the outfit changed from black to grey. Raf Simons likes plain, black and monotone, but also he likes the past in contrast to the future. The music was in this part very fast. The blond group was wearing long light grey and dark grey coats with zippers. The silhouettes are very clean: shirts in classical weaving wool fabrics without collars. Nearly each light grey outfit was with a white 'R' Turtleneck and the dark grey outfits with a red 'R' Turtleneck.

Deluxe Issues 1+2 (complete set)

London. H.M. Schneider. 1977/1978. First Edition. 4to. both volumes Unpaginated. Printed wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

Cult publication Deluxe only ran for 2 issues but came to somehow define british street fashion at the fag end of the seventies. Aside of the Peter Blake/Allen Jones etc. what makes this of interest is the Seditionaries (Vivienne Westwood) presentation by Ku Khanh, which was the first Seditionaries shoot in a magazine and the brilliant 'Wild on the Side Walk', shot by Newman and styled by the great Caroline Baker. The other important shoot is the 'Streetwalking Shocking' shoot by Norrie Maclaren, and its ace. Plus inside out', featuring Westwood, Quant etc. (amazing), 'Wet Dream' featuring YSL, Bill Gibb, Mr. Fish, and shot in Brighton (also amazing), Brian Eno on strange records, Allen Jones, Man Ray, Suze Randall, Lunch with Quentin Crisp and Arnold Schwartzenegger (yes really!), Pasolini, lots of Westwood and some other great shoots by Newman, Baker et al. Such a good magazine, ultra glam (its the seventies), but beginning to foreshadow the street culture later epitomised by the likes of i-D a few years later. A key piece of British fashion history.

Decorattivo 1975-1977 Manuale per uso Professionale (complete set)


Milan. Idea Books / Studio Vista. 1975-1977. First Edition. 3 volumes. Small 4to. Unpaginated (ca 128pp each). Volume 1 comprises 5 softcover books in slipcase, volumes 2 and 3 are conventionally bound. Printed boards as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in Italian and English. Published for private distribution to Architects, designers and theorists. Volumes 2 and 3 were renamed decorattivo 1 and 2 and republished by Idea books for sale to the public. Hardcover.. Book: VG+. .

Stupendous private publication from Branzi's Centro Design Montefibre, whose aim was to research textiles, fibres and colours. Though intended to be a continuing annual publication, Decorattivo only lasted for 3 years. Volume 1 (1975), sets out the aims of the project, continuing to exemplify the ideas through 3 areas- haberdashery, the 19th century and what Branzi calls 'Paquebot'- a 30s style of opposed concepts relating to an idea of 'Luxe'. The theme for Decorattivo 1976 is UFO, a decorative system created from space objects, and amorphous designs connected to spontaneous processes, with 1977 focussing on lines and squares. Texts are also a very definitive and well considered statement, the central idea being that decor is a system of cultural communication and that understanding it's semantics will lead to a non figurative design that at the same time offers cultural representation. Phew- as far as research and as a sourcebook- it is yet to be bettered!

Decorattivo

Milan. Idea Books / Studio Vista. 1976. First Edition. Small 4to. Unpaginated (ca 180pp). Printed boards as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in Italian and English. . Hardcover.. Book: VG. .

Killer project from Archizoom founder Branzi, along with others, who together formed Il Centro Design Montefibre, to research textiles, fibres and colours. Decorattivo was intended to be an annual publication, though only 2 were published by Idea. The themes for Decorattivo 1 are UFO, a decorative system created from space objects, and amorphous designs connected to spontaneous processes. As far as research and as a sourcebook- it is yet to be bettered!

Decorattivo 1 + 2 (complete set)

Milan. Idea Books / Studio Vista. 1976 / 1977. First Edition. 2 volumes. Small 4to. Unpaginated (ca 128pp each). Printed boards and cloth in dustwrap as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in Italian and English. Hardcover.. Book: VG+. .

Killer project from Archizoom founder Branzi, along with others, who together formed Il Centro Design Montefibre, to research textiles, fibres and colours. Decorattivo was intended to be an annual publication, though only 2 were published by Idea. The themes for Decorattivo 1 are UFO, a decorative system created from space objects, and amorphous designs connected to spontaneous processes, with volume 2 focussing on lines and squares. Texts are also a very definitive and well considered statement. As far as research and as a sourcebook- it is yet to be bettered!

Cherry Vanilla Compositions. Poems and Drawings

New York. Vanilla Paper Inc.. 1974. First Edition. 8vo, Unpaginated (ca 80pp). Taped and sewn board binding. Numerous Colour plates. Text in English. Number 6 of 250 copies signed and numbered by Vanilla with an imprint of her nipple.. Hardcover.. Book: Near Fine. .

Early book from pop and punk scene legend Cherry Vanilla. Full of writings, drawings, photographs featuring practically the whole family of rock i.e. Jagger, Bowie etc. "Cherry Vanilla was born Kathleen Dorritie in Woodside, New York. Adopting the stage name Cherry Vanilla, she starred in the London productions of Andy Warhol's play, Pork, and other theatre of the ridiculous plays including a role as a necrophiliac nurse. She worked for MainMan LTD as David Bowie's publicist, in the early 1970s.[2] She became known for her outrageous marketing strategies, which included an open offer to perform oral sex on any DJ who would play Bowie's records and a series of radio commercials that began "Hi, my name is Cherry Vanilla and I've got scoops for you!" whilst working for Radio Hanoi in protest of the Vietnam war. After parting ways with Bowie in 1974, Vanilla formed her first band with Kasim Sulton, which played under her name. In 1976 she formed Cherry Vanilla & her Staten Island Band, with Buzzy John Vierno (bass guitar), Frank La Rocca (drums), Thomas Morrongiello (guitar), and Gary Cohen (piano).[3] The group's first released material was the track "Shake Your Ashes", on the Max's Kansas City album of 1976....."

Comme Des Garcons: Six. Sixth Sense. 1-8 (complete run)

Tokyo. Comme Des Garcons. 1988-1991. First Edition. Folio's (40x30cm), Unpaginated. Screen printed wraps. All issues complete.
A complete run of the cult 'Six', which was printed and privately distributed by Comme des Garcons. Numerous foldouts, spot inks, contributors such as Salvadore Dali, Robert Frank, Josef Koudelka, Peter Lindbergh, Alaia, Issey Miyake, Gilbert & George, Kishin Shinoyama and so many others. Possibly the largest format many of have these artists have been reproduced in. Forms part inspiration and part showcase for the house. A trophy of fashion publishing.

Comme Des Garcons Furniture 1987

Tokyo. Comme des Garcons. 1987. First Edition. Obong 8vo. 4pp + 1 insert. Silver printed wraps. Black & White plates. Text in Japanese. Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. .

A real obscurity. It is not very well known that for some time Kawakubo made a foray into furniture, and these discreet 4 pages appear to be amongst the only surviving evidence. Superbly understated.

Comme Des Garcons 1975-1982

Tokyo. Comme Des Garcons. 1982. First Edition. 12 x 12". 206pp. White cotton paper wraps. Numerous Black & White and Colour plates. Text in English and Japanese.

This is the one. Has all the pre Paris collections, from the first campaign in 1975 running to the first years in Paris (1981/1982). Numerous Japanese photographers such as Kazumi Kurigami, Hajime Sawatari and Daiho Yoshida, but the surprise is Bruce Weber, Deborah Turbeville and Sarah Moon. Also has the very early Lindbergh work.

Boy (London) : The Strength of the Country Lies in it's Youth

London. Boy. ca 1977. First Edition . 43 x 61cm, Offset lithograph on thick stock. A little creasing. Scarce, both institutionally and privately. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

As an offshoot of Acme Attractions, Boy was opened on Kings Road in 1977 by Steph Raynor and John Krivine. The shop was a vehicle for the designs of Peter Christopherson- whos initial concept was that the shop resembled a burnt-out premises in which a boy had died. The shop in it's early days was a magnet for youth related violence, with the windows being regularly smashed by fighting teds and punks, prompting Don Letts, manager at the time to leave and manage the Slits instead. Raynor and Boy later changed direction to become an icon of eighties London, Christophersen moved on and founded the industrial group 'Throbbing Gristle' amongst other things, but his early design work resonates as some of the most striking, dark, and extreme of the Punk Period. Christophson himself modelled in the photograph used for the poster.

Raf SImons Black Palms (Spring Summer 1998)

Antwerp. Privately Printed. 1998. First Edition. 30 x 30 cm, 16pp book, plus 6 postcards and a 60 x 90cm poster with catwalk looks printed on verso, housed in gatefold record cover. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: VG+. Dustwrap: VG+.
 
Raf Simons' most famous collection, made in collaboration with Franky Claeys. Encompasses and distills all of Simons' early preoccupations.

Biba Catalogue (Complete set) + Biba Newspaper

London. Biba. Various, Late 60's. First Edition. 6 x Narrow Folio, 16pp. 36x18cm. Printed wraps. Tabloid, 16pp, newsprint. Text in English. Sepia plates. A little creased with minor wear to edges. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

It doesn't get much better than this- a complete set of 6 Biba mail order catalogues from the late 60s plus the Biba Newspaper which was handed out at the opening of 'Big Biba' in 1973. Catalogues comprise 2 by Hans Feurer, 1 by Sarah Moon, 1 by Harri Peccinotti, 1 by Helmut Newton and 1 by Donald Silverstein. All very very beautiful. A contender for the greatest printed artefact of sixties fashion. Nothing short of incredible, and impossibly scarce to see as a complete set. Amazing.

Penny Slinger An Exorcism

London. Villiers/Empty Eye. 1977. First edition. Oblong 4to, 148pp. Black boards with gilt in photographic dustwrap. Numerous Black & White and Duotone plates. One discreet closed tear to dustwrapper.  Hardback.. Book: Fine. Dustwrap: Near Fine.

Powerful, haunting and surreal collages from London born Slinger. Very new wave (late seventies/early eighties not 50s), echoes of Ken Russell, Helmut Newton. Her work is dark, menacing and beautiful. Slinger has been the subject of contemporary re readings of 70s fine art practices, in particular with regard to second wave feminism, and has been included in various retrospectives and group shows internationally. This- her second book, titled An Exorcism is a 'unique, powerful, and compelling Photo Romance' and a "grotesque and militant contribution" with a "loud message about silence." As the author herself notes, 'the images and accompanying captions present a record of the unravelling of the Self from dualistic limitations and the projections of others.'