Dries Van Noten 1992-2006

Antwerp. N.V.Van Noten Andries/Privately published. 1992-2006. First Edition. Archive comprises: 7 Invitations (including the First Womenswear show in 1994) and 18 lookbooks and runway presentation books. Various sizes and paperstocks- Lookbooks range from 8vo to folio in size and are from 16-72 pages each. Hardcover.. Book: Fine. .

An incredible archive or Dries Van Noten invitations, lookbooks and ephemera stretching from the beginning in 1992 until 2006. Various sizes from regular book size (8vo) to folio for S/S 1998, different paper stocks and bindings, spot inks, gilting, special envelopes, invitations in acrylic, felt and more. Most of the work was done by the team themselves but there's a lot of work by Ronald Stoopz and the rest of the Antwerp crack team. Dries Van Noten has managed to sit both outside and right at the centre of the fashion system at the same time, keeping full independance, never advertising and not producing pre collections of diffusion lines. His refusal to participate in the fashion system has led not only to cult status, but has also allowed him, and his designers complete freedom- which means their work quite distinct. The clothes are subtle, perfectly detailed and considered, taking in a dizzying array of influences from Orientalism to New Wave Cinema and Modernist Painting all shot through with a unique sensibility. This archive of material very much distill's the influences and ethos of the designer and his house from the very early days to the mid 2000's.

Invitations:
Women's collections S/S 1994 (first womenswear show)
Women's collections Undated, but S/S 1997 (invitation gives a meeting place and states that a shuttle will take visitors to the show venue, which was La Plaine Saint-Denis)
Women's collections A/W 1999-2000 (foldout)
Men's collections A/W 1992-1993 (second show)
Men's collections A/W 1994-1995 (+ 6 page press presentation) (in envelope)
Men's collections S/S 1995 (in envelope)
Men's collections A/W 1995-1996 (in envelope)

Lookbooks:
Women's collections S/S 1998
Womens collections S/S 1998 (runway)
Womens Collections A/W 1998-1999 (runway) (2 copies)
Women's Collections A/W 1998-1999 (2 copies)
Womens Collections A/W 1999-2000
Womens Collections S/S 2000
Womens Collections S/S 2001 (runway)
Women's collections S/S 2001
Men's collections A/W 2000-2001
Mens Collections S/S 2004
Mens Collections A/W 2004-2005
Mens Collections S/S 2005
Mens Collections A/W 2005-2006
Men's and Women's Collections S/S 2000
Men's and Women's Collections A/W 2000-2001
Men's and Women's Collections A/W 2001-2002

Raf Simons Disorder Incubation Isolation (Autumn/Winter 1999-2000)

Antwerp. Privately Printed. 1998. First Edition. 30 x 30 cm, 23 12 x 12" cards. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates.  Softcover.. Book: VG+. Dustwrap: VG.

9th season, the collection is shown in a Filmstudio; Studio Carreree on the Avenue du President Wilson no. 50 in Paris close to Porte de la Chapelle on Friday 29th January 1999 at 09h30 pm. A little group of teenagers opened the show, with black flags featuring the following words: DISORDER INCUBATION ISOLATION These words are important to describe the image of the collection, and it is also a memorial to Joy Division. The global idea of this collection is to make a reference to the past, specially the first two parts of the show. Fashion goes so quickly that people tend to forget the historical meaning of clothes, especially costumes. This is why the opening of the show was like a procession to create the right atmosphere. The most important part was a group of models wearing black Capes, classical, asymmetric and circle shapes in three quarter length, a variety of design, an other group wearing ceremonial costumes, shirts with cuffs and collar that are removable. The hair was very constructed in sharp lines. The first three groups had black coloured hair. And in the last part the hair changed to blond coloured hair, but still very constructed hairstyles. The colour of the outfit changed from black to grey. Raf Simons likes plain, black and monotone, but also he likes the past in contrast to the future. The music was in this part very fast. The blond group was wearing long light grey and dark grey coats with zippers. The silhouettes are very clean: shirts in classical weaving wool fabrics without collars. Nearly each light grey outfit was with a white 'R' Turtleneck and the dark grey outfits with a red 'R' Turtleneck.

Deluxe Issues 1+2 (complete set)

London. H.M. Schneider. 1977/1978. First Edition. 4to. both volumes Unpaginated. Printed wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

Cult publication Deluxe only ran for 2 issues but came to somehow define british street fashion at the fag end of the seventies. Aside of the Peter Blake/Allen Jones etc. what makes this of interest is the Seditionaries (Vivienne Westwood) presentation by Ku Khanh, which was the first Seditionaries shoot in a magazine and the brilliant 'Wild on the Side Walk', shot by Newman and styled by the great Caroline Baker. The other important shoot is the 'Streetwalking Shocking' shoot by Norrie Maclaren, and its ace. Plus inside out', featuring Westwood, Quant etc. (amazing), 'Wet Dream' featuring YSL, Bill Gibb, Mr. Fish, and shot in Brighton (also amazing), Brian Eno on strange records, Allen Jones, Man Ray, Suze Randall, Lunch with Quentin Crisp and Arnold Schwartzenegger (yes really!), Pasolini, lots of Westwood and some other great shoots by Newman, Baker et al. Such a good magazine, ultra glam (its the seventies), but beginning to foreshadow the street culture later epitomised by the likes of i-D a few years later. A key piece of British fashion history.

Decorattivo 1975-1977 Manuale per uso Professionale (complete set)

Milan. Idea Books / Studio Vista. 1975-1977. First Edition. 3 volumes. Small 4to. Unpaginated (ca 128pp each). Volume 1 comprises 5 softcover books in slipcase, volumes 2 and 3 are conventionally bound. Printed boards as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in Italian and English. Published for private distribution to Architects, designers and theorists. Volumes 2 and 3 were renamed decorattivo 1 and 2 and republished by Idea books for sale to the public. Hardcover.. Book: VG+. .

Stupendous private publication from Branzi's Centro Design Montefibre, whose aim was to research textiles, fibres and colours. Though intended to be a continuing annual publication, Decorattivo only lasted for 3 years. Volume 1 (1975), sets out the aims of the project, continuing to exemplify the ideas through 3 areas- haberdashery, the 19th century and what Branzi calls 'Paquebot'- a 30s style of opposed concepts relating to an idea of 'Luxe'. The theme for Decorattivo 1976 is UFO, a decorative system created from space objects, and amorphous designs connected to spontaneous processes, with 1977 focussing on lines and squares. Texts are also a very definitive and well considered statement, the central idea being that decor is a system of cultural communication and that understanding it's semantics will lead to a non figurative design that at the same time offers cultural representation. Phew- as far as research and as a sourcebook- it is yet to be bettered!

Decorattivo

Milan. Idea Books / Studio Vista. 1976. First Edition. Small 4to. Unpaginated (ca 180pp). Printed boards as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in Italian and English. . Hardcover.. Book: VG. .

Killer project from Archizoom founder Branzi, along with others, who together formed Il Centro Design Montefibre, to research textiles, fibres and colours. Decorattivo was intended to be an annual publication, though only 2 were published by Idea. The themes for Decorattivo 1 are UFO, a decorative system created from space objects, and amorphous designs connected to spontaneous processes. As far as research and as a sourcebook- it is yet to be bettered!

Decorattivo 1 + 2 (complete set)

Milan. Idea Books / Studio Vista. 1976 / 1977. First Edition. 2 volumes. Small 4to. Unpaginated (ca 128pp each). Printed boards and cloth in dustwrap as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in Italian and English. Hardcover.. Book: VG+. .

Killer project from Archizoom founder Branzi, along with others, who together formed Il Centro Design Montefibre, to research textiles, fibres and colours. Decorattivo was intended to be an annual publication, though only 2 were published by Idea. The themes for Decorattivo 1 are UFO, a decorative system created from space objects, and amorphous designs connected to spontaneous processes, with volume 2 focussing on lines and squares. Texts are also a very definitive and well considered statement. As far as research and as a sourcebook- it is yet to be bettered!

Cherry Vanilla Compositions. Poems and Drawings

New York. Vanilla Paper Inc.. 1974. First Edition. 8vo, Unpaginated (ca 80pp). Taped and sewn board binding. Numerous Colour plates. Text in English. Number 6 of 250 copies signed and numbered by Vanilla with an imprint of her nipple.. Hardcover.. Book: Near Fine. .

Early book from pop and punk scene legend Cherry Vanilla. Full of writings, drawings, photographs featuring practically the whole family of rock i.e. Jagger, Bowie etc. "Cherry Vanilla was born Kathleen Dorritie in Woodside, New York. Adopting the stage name Cherry Vanilla, she starred in the London productions of Andy Warhol's play, Pork, and other theatre of the ridiculous plays including a role as a necrophiliac nurse. She worked for MainMan LTD as David Bowie's publicist, in the early 1970s.[2] She became known for her outrageous marketing strategies, which included an open offer to perform oral sex on any DJ who would play Bowie's records and a series of radio commercials that began "Hi, my name is Cherry Vanilla and I've got scoops for you!" whilst working for Radio Hanoi in protest of the Vietnam war. After parting ways with Bowie in 1974, Vanilla formed her first band with Kasim Sulton, which played under her name. In 1976 she formed Cherry Vanilla & her Staten Island Band, with Buzzy John Vierno (bass guitar), Frank La Rocca (drums), Thomas Morrongiello (guitar), and Gary Cohen (piano).[3] The group's first released material was the track "Shake Your Ashes", on the Max's Kansas City album of 1976....."

Comme Des Garcons: Six. Sixth Sense. 1-8 (complete run)

Tokyo. Comme Des Garcons. 1988-1991. First Edition. Folio's (40x30cm), Unpaginated. Screen printed wraps. All issues complete.
A complete run of the cult 'Six', which was printed and privately distributed by Comme des Garcons. Numerous foldouts, spot inks, contributors such as Salvadore Dali, Robert Frank, Josef Koudelka, Peter Lindbergh, Alaia, Issey Miyake, Gilbert & George, Kishin Shinoyama and so many others. Possibly the largest format many of have these artists have been reproduced in. Forms part inspiration and part showcase for the house. A trophy of fashion publishing.

Comme Des Garcons Furniture 1987

Tokyo. Comme des Garcons. 1987. First Edition. Obong 8vo. 4pp + 1 insert. Silver printed wraps. Black & White plates. Text in Japanese. Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. .

A real obscurity. It is not very well known that for some time Kawakubo made a foray into furniture, and these discreet 4 pages appear to be amongst the only surviving evidence. Superbly understated.

Comme Des Garcons 1975-1982

Tokyo. Comme Des Garcons. 1982. First Edition. 12 x 12". 206pp. White cotton paper wraps. Numerous Black & White and Colour plates. Text in English and Japanese.

This is the one. Has all the pre Paris collections, from the first campaign in 1975 running to the first years in Paris (1981/1982). Numerous Japanese photographers such as Kazumi Kurigami, Hajime Sawatari and Daiho Yoshida, but the surprise is Bruce Weber, Deborah Turbeville and Sarah Moon. Also has the very early Lindbergh work.

Boy (London) : The Strength of the Country Lies in it's Youth

London. Boy. ca 1977. First Edition . 43 x 61cm, Offset lithograph on thick stock. A little creasing. Scarce, both institutionally and privately. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

As an offshoot of Acme Attractions, Boy was opened on Kings Road in 1977 by Steph Raynor and John Krivine. The shop was a vehicle for the designs of Peter Christopherson- whos initial concept was that the shop resembled a burnt-out premises in which a boy had died. The shop in it's early days was a magnet for youth related violence, with the windows being regularly smashed by fighting teds and punks, prompting Don Letts, manager at the time to leave and manage the Slits instead. Raynor and Boy later changed direction to become an icon of eighties London, Christophersen moved on and founded the industrial group 'Throbbing Gristle' amongst other things, but his early design work resonates as some of the most striking, dark, and extreme of the Punk Period. Christophson himself modelled in the photograph used for the poster.

Raf SImons Black Palms (Spring Summer 1998)

Antwerp. Privately Printed. 1998. First Edition. 30 x 30 cm, 16pp book, plus 6 postcards and a 60 x 90cm poster with catwalk looks printed on verso, housed in gatefold record cover. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: VG+. Dustwrap: VG+.
 
Raf Simons' most famous collection, made in collaboration with Franky Claeys. Encompasses and distills all of Simons' early preoccupations.

Biba Catalogue (Complete set) + Biba Newspaper

London. Biba. Various, Late 60's. First Edition. 6 x Narrow Folio, 16pp. 36x18cm. Printed wraps. Tabloid, 16pp, newsprint. Text in English. Sepia plates. A little creased with minor wear to edges. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

It doesn't get much better than this- a complete set of 6 Biba mail order catalogues from the late 60s plus the Biba Newspaper which was handed out at the opening of 'Big Biba' in 1973. Catalogues comprise 2 by Hans Feurer, 1 by Sarah Moon, 1 by Harri Peccinotti, 1 by Helmut Newton and 1 by Donald Silverstein. All very very beautiful. A contender for the greatest printed artefact of sixties fashion. Nothing short of incredible, and impossibly scarce to see as a complete set. Amazing.

Penny Slinger An Exorcism

London. Villiers/Empty Eye. 1977. First edition. Oblong 4to, 148pp. Black boards with gilt in photographic dustwrap. Numerous Black & White and Duotone plates. One discreet closed tear to dustwrapper.  Hardback.. Book: Fine. Dustwrap: Near Fine.

Powerful, haunting and surreal collages from London born Slinger. Very new wave (late seventies/early eighties not 50s), echoes of Ken Russell, Helmut Newton. Her work is dark, menacing and beautiful. Slinger has been the subject of contemporary re readings of 70s fine art practices, in particular with regard to second wave feminism, and has been included in various retrospectives and group shows internationally. This- her second book, titled An Exorcism is a 'unique, powerful, and compelling Photo Romance' and a "grotesque and militant contribution" with a "loud message about silence." As the author herself notes, 'the images and accompanying captions present a record of the unravelling of the Self from dualistic limitations and the projections of others.'

Paolo Roversi Angeli

Paris. Camera Obscura. 1993. First edition. 4to. 32pp. Loose leave photogravure sheets printed in monotone, in beige wrappers. 12 silver gelatin plates. Text in Italian. Slipcase a little worn, book perfect. No 160 of 375 copies numbered by Roversi. Softcover.. Book: Fine. Dustwrap: VG+.

Very beautiful first solo book by Roversi. Inspired by his many travels in India and the Middle East, and mixed with some of his early and personal work.

Nick Latzoni All The Young Dudes

Clifton NJ. Lower Third Enterprises. ca 1976. First Edition. Folio, 20pp. Printed wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. .

Joey Ramone cover alert! Latzoni's 'all the young dudes' is a true mystery, with only 2 issues reputedly published, though the cover states no.6, and there is another issue with vol.2 no.1 on the cover. Rumour has it that Latzoni made up the numbers to make the magazine look larger than it was, though this is unsubstantiated. Either way, a brilliant, and scarce publication, with no institutional holdings. There's no text, just gig photographs of the Ramones, Blondie, New York Dolls, Television and the like, all seem to be unpublished elsewhere making it a somewhat raw diary of early punk rock in the U.S.

Jean Michel Basquiat Amateur Bout

New York. Vrej Baghoomian, Inc. 1989. First Edition. 8vo, Unpaginated (ca 48pp). Printed boards as issued. Text in English. One of 1000 numbered copies. Hardcover.. Book: Fine. .

Facsimile edition of a composition notebook by Basquiat, Designed by Malanga, and published shortly after Basquiat's death.

A Magazine Curated by... No.1 - Martin Margiela

Antwerp. Modenatie. 2004. First Edition. 4to, 206pp. Printed wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

So- the first issue of second wave magazine curated by.. and it really is brilliant. Rammed full of images and collaborations, with very good texts. Contributions from Bless, Marina Faust, Mark Borthwick etc. Quite individual in terms of content, and of course essential for the Margiela fan.

Gianni Castagnoli 80's Xerochromes

Milan. Franco Maria Ricci. 1979. First Edition. Square Folio, 60pp. Printed wraps as issued. Numerous Colour plates. Text in English, Italian and French.

Super 1979 work created with an early colour photocopy machine. Pop goes new wave! Very beautiful, and with some brilliant texts.

Penelope Slinger 50% The Visible Woman (signed limited edition)

London. Narcis Publishing. 1971. First edition. 8vo, Unpaginated (ca120pp). Black boards with gilt in photographic dustwrap in slipcase as issued. Numerous Black & White plates. Book near fine, in like dustwrapper. As is always the case, the silver endpapers eroded somewhat. Number 45 of 50 signed and numbered copies. Hardback.. Book: Near Fine. Dustwrap: Near Fine.

First book from London born Slinger. "The book as a whole constitutes a challenge both to the repressive society whose essence it reveals and to woman themselves. It is a revelation of how little, female phantasy has been explored and how its importance does not lie simply in an up-beat positive discovery of a hidden, better self. Penny Slinger shows that the necessary process of facing feminine sexuality head on is not easy." Laura Mulvey, Spare Rib Magazine, 1971. An early 70's feminist masterpiece.

30 Anni di Vogue Italia

Milan. Conde Nast SPA. 1995. First edition. 4to. Unpaginated (ca 250pp). Black raw edged cloth in folded dustwrap. Numerous Black & White plates.

Killer book compiling 30 years of the best of Vogue Italia. Paolo Roversi, Sarah Moon, Bourdin, Meisel, Lindbergh, Ferri, Klein, Lategan, Unwerth, Rubartelli and so on. Fashion full stop. In a book. Amazing.

20 Anni di Vogue Italia

Milan. Conde Nast SPA. 1984. First edition. 4to. 512pp. Grey cloth in silver dustwrap. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in Italian. Hardcover.. Book: Near Fine. Dustwrap: VG+.

The best work from a who's who of fashion photography from the mid sixties to the early eighties. Meisel, Bob Richardson, Rubartelli, Helmut Newton, Jeanloup Sieff, Guy Bourdin, Sarah Moon, Turbeville, Weber, Avedon, Irving Penn and the list goes on. And there's 500 pages of it. Incredibile!

Mark Borthwick 1978

New York. Self Published. 1997. First Edition. 4to, Unpaginated (ca 200pp). Printed wraps. Numerous Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

Self published. Borthwick's first book. More an artist's book than monograph 1978 sums up everything Mark Borthwick's work is about. Texts, notes, awkward silhouettes, shadows and places.

Larry Clark 1992

New York. Thea Westreich & Gisela Capitain. 1992. First Edition. 4to, 336pp. Stiff printed wraps as issued. One of 1000 copies. First and only edition. A little wear to spine. Softcover.. Book: VG+. .

Larry Clark's best book, and one of his toughest to find, especially in a good condition. No text. Intense portraits and scenarios of violence, masculinity, male sexuality, youth and slacker culture, managing to be both beautiful and extreme in equal measure.

Hal Fischer 18th near Castro St.

San Francisco. NFS Press. 1978. First Edition. Small oblong 8vo, Unpaginated (ca 52pp). Numerous Black & White plates. Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. .

Wonderful little book from Fischer who is better know for his work on gay semiotics (what colour hankerchief goes in what pocket etc.). Here he devoted his talents to a rather cruisy bench on 18th street in San Francisco's gay district (The Castro) for a period of 24 hours, observing who's around and what they're doing. Lovely conceptual project with nice text and super images. Inscribed by Fischer in 1979.

Will Mcbride "R"

Frankfurt. Self Published. 1988. First Edition. Small 8vo. 88pp. Printed wraps as issued. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in German. Clean, tight, no bumps.. Softcover.. Book: Fine. .

Ultra beautiful self published effort from McBride- he of Show Me, Zeig Mal. Based on a friend of Mcbride's- Richard Geldmacher, Mcbride presents poetry and a series of photographs, unseen elsewhere, which depict essentially a new wave teenage diary.

"I groaned with pain..." - Sex, Seditionaries and the Sex Pistols

Westwood, Vivienne; McClaren, Malcomb; Stolper, Paul; Wilson, Andrew.

London. Stolper Wilson. 1996. First Edition. Square 4to. 32pp. Only 500 copies. White wraps with Seditionaries 'Tits' to cover. Black & White throughout. . Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. .

Catalogue from the 1996 exhibition of the same name. Featuring Sex and Seditionaries pieces and artworks by Reid from the collections of Westwood, McClaren, Reid and Richmond. A rare piece of Kings Road epherema.

packed and ready to go. tonight- disco divine meets the pendletons with me @lovexpoet @djgregbelson @eric_boss 8-1 at the social.

later tonight- disco divine meets the pendletons with me @lovexpoet @djgregbelson @eric_boss 8-1 at the social.

later tonight- disco divine meets the pendletons with me @lovexpoet @djgregbelson @eric_boss 8-1 at the social.