Wednesday, 9 May 2018

Teenage Precinct Shoppers / Nigel Shafran




Edition : First / New York / Dashwood Books / 2013 / Softcover. / VG+
8vo, Unpaginated (60pp). Printed wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. One of 500 copies. Small closed tear top spine.

The legendary Shafran project gets a proper printing. There are two series of portraits of teenagers combined here, a black and white series shot in Ilford town centre in the suburbs of East London which originally appeared in I-D magazine in 1990 and had an influence on a whole generation of London based photographers in the early nineties for it's stripped down no frills approach to portraiture and fashion. The second color series was shot both in Ilford Town Center and Brent Cross Shopping Centre, a shopping precinct (a British term for mall). As in all Shafran's work none of the details seem trivial. Instead the choices these teenagers make in hair and make-up in clothes and attitude reveal a sense of profundity.

Finlandia / Jouko Lehtola




Edition : First / Rouen / POC / 2004 / Softcover. / VG+
4to, 102pp. Printed wraps. Very small crease to ffep. Numerous Colour images. Text in Finnish, French and English.

"Jouko Lehtola is a Finnish photographer, born in Helsinki, and most widely known for his late-90s club series "Young Heroes." He is both angry and enthusiastic, and he excels at sussing out those same reactions in unexpected places--a tattooed biker sitting below a wall of gaily colored prize ribbons; kids in mohawks and girls with clownishly messy lipstick; men with sideburns and sunburns and two black eyes. Lehtola gets, it has been said, within smelling distance, and his viewers benefit." Harrowing and beautiful violence.

Coreennes / Chris Marker




Edition : First / Paris / Editions du Seuil / 1959 / Hardcover. / VG+
Large Oblong 8vo. 144pp. Laminate boards as issued. Black & White plates. Text in French. A little rubbing and scuffing to corners.

A key work in Marker's compex career. Already established as a journalist, and working with film makers and friends such as Alain Resnais, William Klein and Agnes Varda, in 1959 he travelled to North Korea as part of a delegation of journalists and observers. The resulting book was presented as a 'Court m'trage' or 'short film' divided into 9 chapters in collaboration with Juliette Caputo- and stands as an early example of his cine roman technique later used in 'commentaires' and translated into his most famous film 'La Jetee' in 1962- where words, space, frequency and image resonance all interplay into narrative. Coreennes also exemplifies Marker's earlier sentiments with the Petit Planete series he edited at Seuil, "Not a guidebook, not a history book, not a propaganda brochure, not a traveller's impressions, but instead equivalent to the conversation we would like to have with someone intelligent and well versed in the country that interests us.", a sentiment which would have greatly contrasted with the west's perceived image of North Korea in the late fifties. That the book appears so natural and effortless is only testament to Maker's mastery of image, text and narrative.

Mandala Zukan / Yoshiichi Hara





Edition : First / Tokyo / Banrou Sha / 1988 / Softcover. / VG+ / VG+
Square 8vo, 600pp. Printed wraps in Dustwrapper. Numerous Black & White plates.

A stunner from the very underrated Yoshiichi Hara. The main subject of his work was strippers and hostesses, but he also aces at street photography. This is quite probably the best of his books. Pretty unknown.

Wednesday, 4 April 2018

Elein Fleiss, Olivier Zahm / Purple 1-16 (complete run)



Edition : First / Paris / Purple Institute / Summer 1998 - Winter 2003 / Softcover / Near Fine
17 Volumes, all 8vo, 200-500pp each. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in French and English.

A true high point in fashion publishing. Both a landmark in the Parisian new wave and a pioneer in the anti fashion aesthetic which came to typify the late nineties- Purple also popularised a generation of underground stars and helped to usher them in to the mainstream. Claude Closky, Viviane Sassen, Bless, Wolfgang Tillmans, Veronique Branquinho, Mark Borthwick, Boudicca, Helmut Lang, the good Terry Richardson, Bernadette Corporation, Juergen Teller and so many more. It's also easy to forget that the late nineties were a time before big houses poached St. Martins students upon graduation and high street brands were using big name photographers to shoot their campaigns- Avant garde fashion was still very DIY, underground and non commercial, and of course in pre internet times, very much focussed around a few places and people. Fortunatly Purple was there to capture it all! The magazines influence cannot be underestimated.

Katsumi Watanabe / Shinjuku Guntoden 66/73



Edition : First / Tokyo / Baragaho Sha / 1973 / Softcover. / Near Fine
Small 8vo, 128pp. Printed wrappers. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in Japanese.

Printed in either 500 or 1000 copies, nobody is quite sure, with half being lost to water damage. During the late sixties and early seventies Watanabe earned his living as a portrait photographer, shooting his subjects on the street and then selling them prints for 200 yen. This book is a collection of shots from the period with Watanabe's printed annotations underneath- prostitutes, gangsters, cross dressers, night faces, gay men and party goers. The most authentic portrait of an underground world, which Watanabe was himself a part of for many years.

Alexander Mcqueen, Craig Mcdean / Givenchy 1997-2000



Edition : First / Paris / Givenchy / 1996 / Softcover. / VG+
8 volumes, various sizes and paginations. Printed wraps as issued. Text in English and Japanese.

Collection of runway and editorial material produced by Givenchy during McQueen's reign. Covers a couple of the more known collections.

Rob Gretton, Tony Wilson / Fac51 The Hacienda Newsletter no.6



Edition : First / Manchester / Factory / Undated (but late 1982) / Softcover. / VG+
15 x 21cm. 8pp including covers, photocopy pages.

One of the few Factory related things not to have its own catalog number. So, the year is 1982, the Hacienda has been open only for a few months, and things are going both swimmingly and disasterously by reading the contents. Listings for Grand Master Flash, ACR, video nights, letters with Jon Savage. Bernard Manning on the cover- who was supposed to be compere on the opening night but commented on stage "I've played some shit-holes during my time, but this is really something" and then walked off. He also remarked to New Order- 'Stick to your day jobs, cos you're not cut out for clubs'. He later returned his fee, and by even their own accounts, was probably right. A bit of a disaster. But a beautiful one.

Daido Moriyama, Takuma Nakahira / Bye Bye Photography (Farewell Photography)



Edition : First / Tokyo / Shashin Hyoronsha / 1972 / Softcover. / VG+ / VG+
Small 4to, Unpaginated (ca 312pp). Printed wraps with dustwrap. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in Japanese. Some foxing to covers and endpapers, and small scrape to rear of dustwrapper.

One of the definitive books of the 20th century. "Inspired by William Klein's blurred photos of New York street life, Andy Warhol's silk-screened productions and Jack Kerouac's free-spirited travel writing, Moriyama developed a new and radical approach to producing images. These broken, rough and blurred black and white photographs paved the way for what would become his future trademark style. No prints or negatives exist for the material presented." A groundbreaking classic, still as poignant as when it was first produced.