Wednesday, 4 April 2018

Elein Fleiss, Olivier Zahm / Purple 1-16 (complete run)



Edition : First / Paris / Purple Institute / Summer 1998 - Winter 2003 / Softcover / Near Fine
17 Volumes, all 8vo, 200-500pp each. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in French and English.

A true high point in fashion publishing. Both a landmark in the Parisian new wave and a pioneer in the anti fashion aesthetic which came to typify the late nineties- Purple also popularised a generation of underground stars and helped to usher them in to the mainstream. Claude Closky, Viviane Sassen, Bless, Wolfgang Tillmans, Veronique Branquinho, Mark Borthwick, Boudicca, Helmut Lang, the good Terry Richardson, Bernadette Corporation, Juergen Teller and so many more. It's also easy to forget that the late nineties were a time before big houses poached St. Martins students upon graduation and high street brands were using big name photographers to shoot their campaigns- Avant garde fashion was still very DIY, underground and non commercial, and of course in pre internet times, very much focussed around a few places and people. Fortunatly Purple was there to capture it all! The magazines influence cannot be underestimated.