Wednesday, 28 March 2018

Bruce Kahlberg, Frank Gagani / No Mag no.1-14


Run of Kahlberg's highly influential no mag, started in 1978, missing only the second issue. Gun loving Kahlberg was quite a controversial figure, but a central part of the L.A. punk and new wave scene in the late 70s and early 80s. Of No Mag, he stated; "We wanted to make the most evil, nihilistic magazine ever,” and The idea behind No was that it wanted to negate everything it touched”. Inspired by Slash and Search & Destroy Kahlberg founded No Mag with Michael Gira whilst at art school, continuing through 6 years and 14 issues. Throughout the early eighties No Mag was one of the few publications to champion the L.A. scene from music to art and fashion. Contributors and features include Raymond Pettibon (credited as Pettibone), Henry Rollins, David Lynch, Suicidal Tendancies, Lydia Lunch, Germs, Circle Jerks and a lot of local events and people, alongside very dark humour, fake autopsies, how to make heroin and irreverent musing on politics, society and advertising. In a later interview Kahlberg referred to the magazine as being like Slash but worse - 'we copied this Mexican kind of like crime report magazine, we put all this violence in there but it wasn't there. We made it up... It was real sensationalistic, and we made it look real, it wasn't'. Though revered today the period was not so well documented at the time, making No Mag particularly poignant as a report from the inside of the scene.

Vanity Magazine (no.1 to no.37)




The legendary magazine created by Anna Piaggi showcasing her favourite designers and illustrators. Like a parallel fashion universe. Despite her huge influence and figurehead status, Piaggi really had no peers, with almost nothing else resembling her output. Though revered by many in the industry, very few have actually seen of handled copies of Vanity. Early issues feature very close collaboration with Antonio Lopez, Bill Cunningham and Juan Ramos, and as the years advance, begin to feature the new wave of Italian design, as well as new Japanese influences. Many designers and stylists had their first appearances here, and seasoned designers of the day opened up in a way that only Piaggi could encourage, making Vanity an extremely unique publication.