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Thursday, 23 February 2017
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Butt Magazine - the pocket-size magazine by, for and about homosexuals. (complete run)
Edition : First / Amsterdam / Butt / Sprint 2001 - Autumn 2011 / Hardcover. / VG+ / VG+ / 8vo, plus one folio, 48-144pp each. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in English and occasionally Dutch.
A complete run of Jonkers' and Bennekom's Butt, spanning a decade of publishing. From issue 1's reputed print run of 500 to a circulation of 24,000 at it's peak Butt changed the publishing landscape, and proved a magazine for and by queers could be a success. Bruce LaBruce "Butt has single-handedly pioneered the notion of a smart, literate gay magazine yet also manages to be very dirty." For sure from the more cultural end of queerdom, Butt is full of faces and work by them- Tillmans, Walter Pfeiffer, John Waters, AA Bronson, Ryan Mcginley and more, many before they were known to the wider public- along with regular guys that have something interesting to say. Butt's place in history will be a controversial one- many activists would argue that the magazine glosses over the reality of daily life for gay men, and instead portrays homosexuality as a glamorous lifestyle populated by the talented and good looking, it's fans and many others would argue that Butt has helped bring homosexuality in to the mainstream without compromise, whilst being interesting and entertaining at the same time, and can be seen to be continuing a line of publishing that takes in After Dark, Straight to Hell, Interview and countless zines. Either way, it's an invaluable record of a decade, and some of the people who populated it, during a time in which the portrayal of homosexuality in the media has unrecognisably changed. A rounded in depth document through interviews, anecdotes and visuals of fun, culture and fagdom in the early 21st century.
Hans Peter Fendmann / Celine Duval / Cahier D'images - Charlotte
Edition : First / Dusseldorf / Self Published / 2002 / Softcover. / Near Fine
8vo. 24pp. Printed wraps. Full page Black & White plates/collages and 6 colour plates produced on a photocopier. One of 600 copies.
Feldmann and Duval's collaborative project Cahier D'images took many themes during it's short existence- seemingly arbitrary themes that tie together a free form of image appropriation. Their last collaboration- Charlotte- took cult actress and Paris face Charlotte Gainsbourg as it's subject, creating an almost teenage scrapbook or fanbook like work.
BLESS no.18 - Allroundwear
Edition : First / Berlin/Paris / Sternberg Press / 2002 / Softcover. / VG+
16mo. Unpaginated (ca 24pp). Printed wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White images. Text in English.
"clothes for wearers more than spectators in a research of balancing inside feelings with outside conditions, urge of comfort with aesthetic progress, summerneeds and winteroptics and the feeling to own something that takes care of you. Fashion is a product you buy to fulfill the law of a saturated society and we would like to add something we miss personally. Presented on a moving surface, a crashproof of flexibility for all personal balance and garment adaption. The instant impression can't be forseen nor repeated, the flux goes on."
BLESS no.20 - O.Kayers - Extended Hotel Service
Edition : First / Berlin/Paris / Sternberg Press / 2003 / Softcover. / VG+
16mo. Unpaginated (ca 48pp). Printed wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White images. Text in English.
BLESS Nﾡ20 for the first time presents sunglasses, undergarments and swimsuits in the unique BLESS way. This project was presented in the context of a hotel and is an attempt to respond to a traveller's eternal problem of heavy luggage. In addition, this offering provides the opportunity to extend possible hotel services to enhance the client's comfort during their stay. The hotel clients find in their wardrobe a small selection of basic and useful clothes, such as undergarments, a knitted jumper, a suit, a dress, sunglasses, a bag and many other items that are at his or her free disposal during the stay. The rooms do not target a special category or clientele. In the ideal case, this additional service can be a contribution to a new relaxed way of travelling.
Made in USA Issue 1. F/W 1999-2000
Edition : First / New York / Bernadette Corporation / 1999 / Softcover. / VG+
8vo, 128pp. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in English. A little creasing to spine with one small closed year to cover.
From 1999 to 2001, New York-based collaborative project Bernadette Corporation produced Made In USA, a magazine that combined fashion, art, music, and critique as an experimental publication. For three issues, Made In USA mapped out the cultural terrain for a generation of artists living in New York at a time when reactionary politics and the phenomenon of globalization reached a tipping point. Fouded in a nightclub in 1994, Bernadette Corp existed as a club collective, and then a fashion label before publishing the only 3 issues of Made in USA. Seeing fashion as a seductive surface and a potent platform for disruptive ideas BC negate traditional fashion imagery and place it alongside theoretical texts, echoing the concerns and practices of the european avant garde, though in Made in USA many of these ideas seem to have been pushed to their logical conclusion. The first issue includes contributions from Susan Cianciolo, Dike Blair, Rita Ackermann, Thomas Hirschhorn, Actress and Marcelo Krasilcic.
Made in USA Issue 2. S/S 2000
Edition : First / New York / Bernadette Corporation / 2000 / Softcover. / VG+
8vo, 128pp. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in English. A little creasing to spine.
From 1999 to 2001, New York-based collaborative project Bernadette Corporation produced Made In USA, a magazine that combined fashion, art, music, and critique as an experimental publication. For three issues, Made In USA mapped out the cultural terrain for a generation of artists living in New York at a time when reactionary politics and the phenomenon of globalization reached a tipping point. Fouded in a nightclub in 1994, Bernadette Corp existed as a club collective, and then a fashion label before publishing the only 3 issues of Made in USA. Seeing fashion as a seductive surface and a potent platform for disruptive ideas BC negate traditional fashion imagery and place it alongside theoretical texts, echoing the concerns and practices of the european avant garde, though in Made in USA many of these ideas seem to have been pushed to their logical conclusion. The second issue includes contributions from Pasolini, Paul Virilio, Jutta Koether, Mark Borthwick, Peter Scott, Anders Edstrom and the bernadette crew.
Nobuyoshi Araki / Midori
Edition : First / Tokyo / Tankisha / 1982 / Softcover / Near Fine / VG+
Small 4to, Unpaginated (ca 64pp). Printed wraps in printed envelope. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in Japanese.
One of Araki's more obscure offerings, and one of his rarest of the period. It's also worth noting that there is no nudity. The simple, elegant and restrained story has 19th century roots, based on Meiji novelist Ichiyo Higuchi's Takekurabe. Midori is the younger sister of a hostess, and the story is that of her last days before she falls to the same fate. Filled with foreboding regret, Araki's portrait of a current day masseuse echoes the novel's tragic and mournful theme.
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