Thursday, 8 November 2018
Wednesday, 7 November 2018
AtomAge (complete run)
John Sutcliffe is a legend in fetish circles. Aside of creating fetish wear (he really was the first), he made costumes for Allen Jones' work, Marianne Faithfull in Girl on a Motorcycle, was stocked at Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm MacLaren's Sex, and his bespoke clothing was featured in various stage and screen endeavours, though not the Avengers as had commonly been said, it is likely however he made them. His story- as far as rubber and leather is concerned- begins in 1957, where unable to find a motorcycle outfit for a lady friend, he tasks himself with making one. Thus began a highly successful bespoke leather business, making clothing for women which up until that point hadn't existed and was a roaring success with both women who rode motorcycles, and kinks. Knowing the tastes of his clients and after initial hesitation, he started producing rubberwear in 1967 to complement his leather goods, by which time the business had grown and he had to move it from his Hampstead flat to premises in Covent Garden. It was not until 1972, at the suggestion from one of his regulars (and Atomage writer) Helen Henley that he started a magazine, initially to normalise, and popularise the idea that leather and rubber could be worn for both utility and pleasure. Initially printed in a run of 800 copies, and available by mail order from his workshop, Atomage featured his own creations, articles by husband and wife Robert and Helen Henley and order forms for clothing and future issues. It went on to feature the Mackintosh club, diving, utility wear, masks, wading, mudlarking and every other type of clothing fetish that existed or had yet to be categorised, with a correspondence system for readers and a lot of pictures of readers in their favourite clothing, thus effectively giving birth to a social circle, and a burgeoning scene. By issue 13 of the magazine regulars were complaining about the fetish heavy content, so a supplement was created to focus on the more kink oriented aspect of the publication. Atomage continued happily alongside the clothing business until 1980, gaining stockists and new fans year on year, until Sutcliffe set his sights on the international scene, and rechristened the magazine Atomage International, with a larger A4 format, and 2 further magazines focusing on Bondage and Rubber respectively. Disaster struck in 1983, when a prudish member of the public send a copy of the Sutcliffe published Story of Gerda to the police, resulting in a raid, confiscation of his entire stock, and the destruction of the printing plates for all his material. Greatly diminished, he relocated to Park Royal, where he continued to make clothing until his death in 1987. Aside of the odd item of cherished clothing in personal wardrobes, and a flourishing scene that Sutcliffe helped facilitate, Atomage is all that is left of his legacy. It's a real insight into a private world shared by few, where rules of engagement are quite different to mainstream society, and the extremity of the clothing and (to most people) odd behavioural codes contrast strongly with the often mundane contexts they appears in. Suburban semi's, gardens, road lay-by's and home made dungeons all appear in the fantasy pages of the magazine, along with all sorts of people, some ordinary, some not so. To the unacquainted reader it is very much a parallel world, populated by almost recognisable fantasies and cultural tropes. Very much an enthusiasts publication Atomage somehow managed to span a gap between the Avant Garde cultural practices of the Sixties and Seventies and the desires of thousands of ordinary people all over the world. “He was one of the apostles of fashion. I mean, he was one of the important designers of the 1960s that revolutionised everything – he freed fashion from its applied traditional constraints. Before John came along the idea of a woman wearing leather was a shocking one. John was one of the movers of the Carnaby Street scene, and fashion never really looked back after this magical period.” Robert Henley.
Tuesday, 6 November 2018
Atomage (complete collection)
John Sutcliffe is a legend in fetish circles. Aside of creating fetish wear (he really was the first), he made costumes for Allen Jones' work, Marianne Faithfull in Girl on a Motorcycle, was stocked at Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm MacLaren's Sex, and his bespoke clothing was featured in various stage and screen endeavours, though not the Avengers as had commonly been said, it is likely however he made them. His story- as far as rubber and leather is concerned- begins in 1957, where unable to find a motorcycle outfit for a lady friend, he tasks himself with making one. Thus began a highly successful bespoke leather business, making clothing for women which up until that point hadn't existed and was a roaring success with both women who rode motorcycles, and kinks. Knowing the tastes of his clients and after initial hesitation, he started producing rubberwear in 1967 to complement his leather goods, by which time the business had grown and he had to move it from his Hampstead flat to premises in Covent Garden.
It was not until 1972, at the suggestion from one of his regulars (and Atomage writer) Helen Henley that he started a magazine, initially to normalise, and popularise the idea that leather and rubber could be worn for both utility and pleasure. Initially printed in a run of 800 copies, and available by mail order from his workshop, Atomage featured his own creations, articles by husband and wife Robert and Helen Henley and order forms for clothing and future issues. It went on to feature the Mackintosh club, diving, utility wear, masks, wading, mudlarking and every other type of clothing fetish that existed or had yet to be categorised, with a correspondence system for readers and a lot of pictures of readers in their favourite clothing, thus effectively giving birth to a social circle, and a burgeoning scene. By issue 13 of the magazine regulars were complaining about the fetish heavy content, so a supplement was created to focus on the more kink oriented aspect of the publication. Atomage continued happily alongside the clothing business until 1980, gaining stockists and new fans year on year, until Sutcliffe set his sights on the international scene, and rechristened the magazine Atomage International, with a larger A4 format, and 2 further magazines focusing on Bondage and Rubber respectively. Disaster struck in 1983, when a prudish member of the public send a copy of the Sutcliffe published Story of Gerda to the police, resulting in a raid, confiscation of his entire stock, and the destruction of the printing plates for all his material. Greatly diminished, he relocated to Park Royal, where he continued to make clothing until his death in 1987.
Aside of the odd item of cherished clothing in personal wardrobes, and a flourishing scene that Sutcliffe helped facilitate, Atomage is all that is left of his legacy. It's a real insight into a private world shared by few, where rules of engagement are quite different to mainstream society, and the extremity of the clothing and (to most people) odd behavioural codes contrast strongly with the often mundane contexts they appears in. Suburban semi's, gardens, road lay-by's and home made dungeons all appear in the fantasy pages of the magazine, along with all sorts of people, some ordinary, some not so. To the unacquainted reader it is very much a parallel world, populated by almost recognisable fantasies and cultural tropes. Very much an enthusiasts publication Atomage somehow managed to span a gap between the Avant Garde cultural practices of the Sixties and Seventies and the desires of thousands of ordinary people all over the world. “He was one of the apostles of fashion. I mean, he was one of the important designers of the 1960s that revolutionised everything – he freed fashion from its applied traditional constraints. Before John came along the idea of a woman wearing leather was a shocking one. John was one of the movers of the Carnaby Street scene, and fashion never really looked back after this magical period.” Robert Henley.
Sunday, 4 November 2018
Thursday, 1 November 2018
Wednesday, 31 October 2018
Nick Latzoni / All The Young Dudes (complete set)
Joey Ramone cover alert! Latzoni's 'all the young dudes' is a true mystery, with only 2 issues reputedly published, though the cover stares no.6, and there is another issue with vol.2 no.1 on the cover. Rumour has it that Latzoni made up the numbers to make the magazine look larger than it was, though this is unsubstantiated. Either way, a brilliant, and scarce publication. There's no text, just gig photographs of the Ramones, Blondie, New York Dolls, Cherry Vanilla, Patti Smith, Richard Hell, Cramps, Television and the like, all seem to be unpublished elsewhere making it a somewhat raw diary of early punk rock in the U.S.
Sunday, 28 October 2018
Thursday, 25 October 2018
Thursday, 18 October 2018
Kutt Magazine – Dyke Zine. (complete run)
The sister magazine to Butt. “Summer 2001, we had dinner with Gert and Jop from Butt Magazine and before we knew it, they had proposed doing a lesbian sister mag. We loved the idea! Before we knew it, we had thought of a name. That name was Kutt, which means c**t in Dutch. The perfect reason to go and chase the girls of our dreams. Chloe was in Paris shooting a new film, Jessica bumped into her, and- before she knew it- got her into the magazine. Martien decided to experiment together with Nienke and – before she knew it – the Mattresses shoot was reality. Marjolein was doing a photography course and wanted to make a portrait of Farida. Before she knew it, she was also doing the interview. We called Anette, who we adore, and before we knew it, gorgeous pix of Amber & Caitlin were delivered by UPS. Marjolein found an old lesbian porn book from the seventies, and before we knew it, we were producing the lesbian sex feature. Well, before we knew it, Kutt was ready. So go ahead and read it! It will be finished before you know it, so you beter enjoy it!.” Kutt lasted for 3 issues only before Gysel went on to found Girls Like Us. The beginning of something very very good! Contributions from Collier Schorr, Ryan Mcginley, Viviane Sassen.
Sophie Calle / Anatoli
Calle’s account of her journey on the Trans-Siberian express from Moscow to Vladivostok where she meets her cabin mate Anatoli Voroli. Despite neither of them being able to speak each others language, they develop a sort of amiable domestic life for a few days in their cabin. Fascinating and banal in equal measure. Laid in are 2 photographs of Voroli, which do not appear in the book.
The Indigenous Patterns and Hotel Okura
Stunning book detailing the textile and wallpaper patterns, as well as the key themes of the famous Hotel Okura. “The Okura is an extraordinary testament to a key moment in Japanese design. It was built two years ahead of the Tokyo Olympics in 1964 ‘ with an annexe added in 1973 ‘ by an exceptionally gifted and diverse group that included the architects Yoshiro Taniguchi and Hideo Kosaka, the folk artist Shiko Munakata and the potter Kenkichi Tomimoto. Together they created a unique modern design that referenced the traditional colours, shapes and crafts of Japan.” Fiona WIlson.
Fac235 New Order Blue Monday 88 Flickbook
Edition : First / Manchester / Factory Communications / 1988 / Softcover. / VG+
18 x 12.5cm. Printed wraps with plastic bolt binding. 350 copies were produced, with 250 being distributed as a christmas present from factory. A copy was also used in the “Blue Monday 1988” video. Also credited is William Wegman, whos dog ‘Fay’ stars in the animation.
18 x 12.5cm. Printed wraps with plastic bolt binding. 350 copies were produced, with 250 being distributed as a christmas present from factory. A copy was also used in the “Blue Monday 1988” video. Also credited is William Wegman, whos dog ‘Fay’ stars in the animation.
Typically lavish factory production, originally produced
for use in the video for Blue Monday 1988, and then used as a christmas
present in the same year.
Les Images D'Antonioni
Stunning visual Antonioni monograph, comprising of set stills from almost all of his films, including Blow up, La Notte, L’Avventura and L’Eclisse. Very Monica Vitti heavy, with Jeanne Moreau, Marcello Mastroianni and Alain Delon along with a who’s who of the new wave. The work of Antonioni has always been exercise in elegant and subtle scenography, and the still images here exemplify this in a way that the moving image inherently cannot, making it an essential reference to his work.
Bizarre (complete run)
It's almost impossible to convey the importance, impact and place in the history of fetish publishing of Bizarre, the brainchild and private passion of Singapore Born John Alexander Coutts aka John Willie. His contribution and the quality of his work is amongst the most respected in the genre, obscured by his reclusiveness and the clandestine nature of his published output, which until some years after his death remained an exclusively underground phenomenon. Willie acted not only as editor, but also took almost all of the photographs (many featuring his wife Holly Anna Faram) and drew all of the illustrations. He sold Bizarre in 1956 and moved to Los Angeles where he continued his photographic work until he suffered a brain tumour after which he destroyed his work and archive and moved to England until his death in 1962. His combination of talent and inclination are quite unique and quite distinct from his peers, and his style seems to have accidentally become part of a common cultural lexicon, so much so that when classic fetish is referenced in a modern context, it almost always looks as if it was heavily influenced by the hand of Willie Himself.
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