Monday, 2 July 2018

that bill cunningham, prowling the streets of paris again, this time in 1982, and presumably during fashion week #billcunningham #details#annieflanders


bill cunningham, prowling the streets of paris again, this time in 1982. #billcunningham #details#annieflanders


that bill cunningham, prowling the streets of paris again, this time in 1982. #billcunningham #details#annieflanders


Jean Michel Basquiat, Gerard Malanga / Amateur Bout



Edition : First / New York / Vrej Baghoomian Inc / 1989 / Hardcover. / VG+
8vo, Unpaginated (ca 48pp). Printed boards as issued. Text in English. No.229 of 1000 numbered copies.

Facsimile of a composition notebook by Basquiat, Designed by Malanga, and published shortly after Basquiat's death.

What is 10.21?



Edition : First / Tokyo / 10.21 Publishing committee / 1969 / Softcover. / VG+
8vo, Unpaginated (ca 96pp). Printed wraps. Numerous Black & White plates. Text in Japanese. A little rubbed.

Student created book documenting protests and rallies during 1967 and 1968 and taking it's name from Anti Vietnam protests on 21st October 1966. The book serves as an accidental provoke classic. Almost all of the photographs were taken by the students themselves, often at night, and in difficult circumstances, meaning the aesthetic of 'are, bure, boke' is omnipresent. To avoid legal complications there are no credits and no faces are clearly shown, and a handy reference is present at the rear of the book detailing which protests took place where and when. The book is almost an object of found photography, were it not for it's strong political purpose. Possible one of the most poignant protests books to emerge from Japan.

Peter Lindbergh, Tokio Kumagi / Tokio Kumagai Printemps/Ete 1988



Edition : First / Paris / Tokio Kumagai / 1988-1989 / Softcover. / Near Fine / VG+
Large 4to, 2 volumes, Unpaginated (ca 16pp each). Printed wraps. Duotone plates.

Stunning 2 volume set from Kumagai's peak, with Lindbergh shooting women in menswear, and men in menswear respectively. The work is up there with the best of his Comme des Garcons output of the same period. Kumagai sadly died in 1987 at the age of 40, with the company winding down shortly after these catalogues were produced. During his short life however, he extended a strong influence over menswear and Tokyo/Paris fashion. Printed records of his work are extremely scarce.

Michaelangelo Antonioni, Carlo Pinti / Blow Up



Edition : First / Tokyo / Herald Enterprises / 1994 / Softcover. / VG+
4to, 6 items in box. Numerous Colour Black & White plates. Text in English and Japanese.

Promo box for Antonioni's 1966 Blow Up, produced in 1994. Takes the form of a box of photographic paper, and contains; 3 postcards, a facsimile of the original poster, a book of on set/press shots, and a black and white book full of stills. Tasty!

Pierre Le Gall / Des Parisiennes



Edition : First / Paris / Syros / 1987 / Hardcover. / VG+
Oblong 4to, Unpaginated (ca 176pp). Laminate boards. Black & White plates. Text in English and French.

Another of the great accidental references. Le Gall is a pretty straightforward street photographer, though he categorises his work by city, gender, occupation and so on. Here turns himself to Parisiennes. Shot in 1986 and 1987, it's an incredible ducumentary, very much in the vein of Kurimoto's Girl's Fashion. Le Gall also seems to be interested in details- Hair, Zips, people carrying thing, certain facial expressions and sequences/categorises his images by the most subtle of details. One of the great street documentary references.

Craig Mcdean, Marc Ascoli, M/M Paris, Jil Sander /



Edition : First / Hamburg / Jil Sander / 1996 / Hardcover. / VG+
Small 4to, Unpaginated (36pp). Spiral bound board wraps. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. A little wear to covers and faint creasing to top right.

Stonking stuff from Craig Mcdean and Marc Ascoli, with M/M on design duties. Just brilliant.

David Sims, Joe Mckenna, M/M Paris, Jil Sander / Jil Sander S/S 1999



Edition : First / Hamburg / Jil Sander / 1999 / Hardcover. / VG+
Small 4to, Four large double sided posters, held in cover with thread. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates.

Brilliant lookbook from Sims, styled by Mckenna. More Sander magic...

TGRAPHICS 1990-2014 A History of Undercover T Graphics



Edition : First / Tokyo / Undercover / 2014 / Hardcover. / Near Fine / Near Fine
Small Folio, 300pp. Cloth in Slipcase. Numerous Colour and Black & White plates. Text in English and Japanese.

A brilliant document of the street roots of Undercover. Takahashi- "My memory is very vague, but it will have been 25 years this year or next year since Undercover started. Officially I made 1990 the year of the launch. I think it is just OK. Anyway, 25 years ago, I was a student at Bunka fashion college. Together with my friend at school, I made a start with a T-Shirt design with a crown in the shape of the word 'undercover'. I still remember vividly that we took down a 'most wanted' photo of a person belonging to some organisation on the premises of Koenji station, and jointly collaged it. This was the memorable first work of undercover. For a few years after that, since the computer was not widespread yet, we printed t-shirts using manual labour. We copied graphics with a copy machine at a convenience store, cut the copied graphics with scissors and pasted them, arrangig words with dry transfer lettering. Then we brought the finished artwork to an art store to have it silk screened for t-shirts. We diligently printed t-shirts one by one in our apartment every day. Since the workplace was our apartment, the bathroom naturally became the place to wash screens. Although we were finally able to move to an apartment with a bathroom, which we had dreamed of, we soon filled the bathtub with sludge. This is a good memory now... ...On the milestone of 25 years history, I have the honour of providing you with a compilation of my work. I am happy if you will feel something from it..."

Joy Division Shimmy.... / Jon Savage



Edition : First / Hulme / Self published / 1979 / Softcover. / VG+
21 x 29.7cm. Xerox on white stock.

Flyer for a very early Joy Division night at the Russell Club, Royce Road, Hulme with Artwork by Jon Savage. Reputedly a reasonable number of flyers were made (low hundreds), though this is only the second I have seen. A handful of others are known, along with a few posters of the same image. The recording of the night was reissued with the 2007 CD of Unknown Pleasures and comprises- Dead Souls, The Only Mistake, Insight, Candidate, Wilderness, She's Lost Control, Shadowplay, Disorder, Interzone, Atrocity Exhibition, Novelty, Transmission. The gig was a month after the release of Unknown Pleasures, but which time Joy Division has become very popular as a Manchester band, with 5000 copies selling. A wonderful piece of epemera produced before Saville had cemented the Factory style, and almost a year before Cutis' death.

Wednesday, 13 June 2018

Annie Flanders / Bill Cunningham / Details (March 1983)


Another very rare early issue of Flanders' Details. Killer Bill Cunningham on the street, a huge and amazing sci fi fashion shoot, Susan Tyrell, Berlin, in the kitchen with Dynasty, phew!




Annie Flanders / Bill Cunningham / Details (November 1982)


Issue 5 of the legendary Details. Bill Cunningham does street fashion at Paris Fashion Week, bagging Anna Piaggi and lots of Comme and Yamamoto along the way, collections, again by Cunningham including Gaultier, Alaia, Kenzo, Westwood, Kansai Yamamoto, Kawakubo, Chloe etc. its brilliant. Hats, The Genius of Charles James by Cunningham and the rest. Really excellent.