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Monday, 12 September 2016
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Wednesday, 31 August 2016
Elisabeth Dijan / Jill Magazine 1983-1987
Though Jill existed for only 11 issues- from summer 1983 to october 1985, the small magazine's inflience, and that of its director- 24 year old former law student Elisabeth Djian echoed through the fashion world of the late eighties. Today cited by Marc Jacobs, Hedi Slimane and numerous editors and stylists, Jill at the time broke with the norm in publishing- the magazine was completely independent and devoid of advertising (reputedly telephone calls from potential advertisers were ignored), with Djian running the magazine from her grandmother's apartment on a tiny budget. Many of the shoots and editorials echo what came to be known as 'the new simplicity', though Jill was shot through with a heavy elements of fantasy and orientalism. Djian comissioned hazy shoots by Lindbergh in Egypt and Jean Baptiste Mondino in the twilight hours of the city based on themes from Guido Crepax to the cult 1915 series Les Vampires. New designers are present- Gautier was often a collaborator, Galliano, Martine Sitbon and Alaia appears in the pages and the new wave of Japanese fashion that had hit Paris is also heavily present. Djian also introduced the world to Ellen Von Unwerth, and paris faces such as Pierre and Gilles are regular contributors. Shortly after Jill folded Djian worked for The Face in London and later started Numero magazine.
Monday, 29 August 2016
Comme des Garcons Furniture
Comme Des Garcons Furniture
CDG; Kawakubo, Rei;.
Tokyo. Comme des Garcons. 1990. First Edition. 4to, 2 volumes. Unpaginated (72pp & 8pp + 5 inserts). Printed wraps in printed envelope. Black & White plates. Text in English and Japanese. OCLC traces no copies, though 3 are known to exist, with one confirmed institutional holding. More images available on request.. Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. Dustwrap: Near Fine.
Maybe the hardest to find, and most obscure comme reference- Comme des Garcons furniture was produced in 1990 as a simple book with no text, minimal art direction, and little in the way of explanation. 28 pieces, from No.1 - No.28, produced between 1983 and 1990, presented opposite their sources. Kawakubo's furniture could be seen to be post modern if it were not so minimal (that's a design genre waiting to be established), she said herself the chairs had- 'an essence of simplicity and weren't made for your derriere, but for your admiration.' and that "Comme des Garcons furniture can come to its true essence when placed in an environment that is not too pretentious... ...One can enjoy them better when they are placed in, for instance, an entrance hall or hallway where there exists no constraint." Reputedly at the 1988 presentation in Chicago the furniture was to be placed in a large pile in the middle of the room, with more being supplied if the pile was too small. One can only imagine.
Tokyo. Comme des Garcons. 1990. First Edition. 4to, 2 volumes. Unpaginated (72pp & 8pp + 5 inserts). Printed wraps in printed envelope. Black & White plates. Text in English and Japanese. OCLC traces no copies, though 3 are known to exist, with one confirmed institutional holding. More images available on request.. Softcover.. Book: Near Fine. Dustwrap: Near Fine.
Maybe the hardest to find, and most obscure comme reference- Comme des Garcons furniture was produced in 1990 as a simple book with no text, minimal art direction, and little in the way of explanation. 28 pieces, from No.1 - No.28, produced between 1983 and 1990, presented opposite their sources. Kawakubo's furniture could be seen to be post modern if it were not so minimal (that's a design genre waiting to be established), she said herself the chairs had- 'an essence of simplicity and weren't made for your derriere, but for your admiration.' and that "Comme des Garcons furniture can come to its true essence when placed in an environment that is not too pretentious... ...One can enjoy them better when they are placed in, for instance, an entrance hall or hallway where there exists no constraint." Reputedly at the 1988 presentation in Chicago the furniture was to be placed in a large pile in the middle of the room, with more being supplied if the pile was too small. One can only imagine.
Friday, 26 August 2016
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